It’s the kind of attention to detail that allows for restaurants to thrive or fail, and McGrath knows well how both feel. McGrath is very attached to the leather, and asks a passing waiter if it has been cleaned with the “special stuff” from Italy yet. The table effect is very beautiful, but it also looks as if it’s just waiting to receive a slash from an errant steak knife, or perhaps an indelible mark from a nervous biro. It is a brave endeavour, the risks reflected in a very fancy 1930s-Manhattan design that saw bespoke leather chairs remade multiple times before they were deemed perfect, and table-tops coated in fine Italian leather. It’s a Wednesday morning in Shelbourne Social, the latest outlet in McGrath’s collection of Dublin restaurants and arguably the one that turns a group into an empire. As with everything else in his life, he is taking this interview very seriously. He then often follows by explaining what he didn’t mean, just in case you got the wrong impression. It turns out that the delays come because he thinks very, very carefully about every answer. Dylan McGrath pauses an awful lot after being asked a question, almost to the point where you start to wonder if in fact it was him who did the asking in the first place.
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